Kayaking Along The Apostle Islands
Over the past few contracts, we have gotten used to things being relatively close to our general location. We rarely ever drive more than a couple of hours to get somewhere. This adventure was different. We had to channel our inner Montanans for a five-hour drive “Up North” to Bayfield, Wisconsin, and the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. With kayaking, hiking, and a very unique maple syrup spot in Wisconsin, we will not soon forget our adventure to such a beautiful and awe-inspiring region of our country!
Mile: 68,355
Quote of the Blog: “Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and enjoy the journey.” - Babs Hoffman
Song of the Blog: “No Particular Place to Go” - Chuck Berry
It was later in the week when we made the impulsive decision to head up to the Apostle Islands. We knew we wanted to make it there, and we found a great weather window to make it happen. With the quick decision, we were not able to find a campground to reserve, but we did find a couple that were first-come, first-served. Worst-case scenario, we would find a place to park the car and car camp for the night. The only real plan we had was to book a kayaking trip once we got there to paddle around the iconic caves, cliffs, and islands that make up the Apostle Islands.
The drive up to Bayfield, WI, was beautiful. This area is the northernmost point in the state, so we had some ground to cover. We passed by a couple of towns we had once considered for potential contract locations in Wisconsin and were glad we passed, as they were way out in the middle of nowhere. Our drive even took us through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. We had never been to Michigan, so that was a new state for the day! We knew we were getting close when we got our first glimpse of Lake Superior. This was exciting because we knew we would be swimming and paddling in Lake Superior. This lake is the largest in the Western Hemisphere, so it’s kind of a big deal! In Montana, we were proud of the size of Flathead Lake, but this is on a scale that isn’t even comparable. Before we knew it, we were in Bayfield booking our afternoon kayak tour with Apostle Islands Kayaking to explore the sea caves and shoreline nearby.
Before heading out on the water, we wanted to find a campsite for the night. The problem was that every campground in the area was booked out for tent camping. We comically followed a group from campground to campground in the hopes of finding a spot, but neither of us was successful. We didn’t have much time to look before our tour was scheduled to start, so we scrapped the search and headed down to the lake. While waiting for our tour, Amity was able to get a campground host on the phone and book us an RV site that allowed us to set up our tent. Mission number one completed! Next up was getting out on the water—which became a bit of a wild goose chase. We started at one area, but no one was there. We then checked the tour guide’s website and saw a different location listed, so we quickly drove there. Again, no one was there. After learning that the company only communicates via text, we received the most bizarre text response—broken English and no real clarity—other than being told to go back to the spot we had just left. It didn’t take us long to get back to the original location on the lake. When we arrived, a group was coming off the water. We introduced ourselves as the next tour, but they had no idea who we were or that another tour was scheduled. After a couple of minutes, they found our reservation and got us set up to head out on the water.
The tour we booked was the shortest and easiest, but we didn’t really know what that meant. Looking back, it couldn’t have been more accurate. The tour itself was basic, but it did take us out to some amazing coastal bluffs and around an island that looked like it defied gravity. Our tour guides were another story. We went out with two men who were both very nice and always had positive energy, which is exactly what you want from a tour guide. The issue was that one of them appeared to have just started and knew absolutely nothing about the area. His main contribution was being a stoked-up Cali-dude who loved to exclaim, “Woah!” or “No way!” in that signature West Coast style. The other guide was a rough-and-tumble local—the kind of guy who had clearly seen some things in life. Whether it was his story about living in West Memphis or the fact that he was missing several teeth, he didn’t exactly give off “helpful in an emergency” vibes. That being said, they did get us out on the water, and kayaking in the largest lake on this side of the planet was AWESOME! We could have done without the bizarre agate rock hunt, and it might have felt more organized if they had known we were coming in the first place—but maybe that’s on us for booking the “Bunny Hill” tour last minute. Looking back, it was a super fun time, and now we have a hilarious experience to go along with it.
After getting off the water, we headed up to the Apostle Islands Campground to set up for the night. We got lucky with this site and were excited to get things ready. After dinner, we headed out for some exploring. First, we wanted to check out an area of the campground Amity had spotted on the way in—a manmade pond for swimming surrounded by some of the funniest and most unique small cabins you can rent. Each one was styled differently, from a replica pirate ship to a fake log cabin to a replica tugboat. They stole our hearts and had us laughing until we teared up! We then drove into Bayfield to see what the town was like. It was a cute little place with a coastal vibe, reminding us of Astoria, OR, mixed with Port Townsend, WA, and a dash of Bar Harbor, ME. We cruised around to admire all the Colonial and Victorian-style houses before parking and walking through town. We checked out the shops and boutiques before heading into Morty’s Pub—a great small-town bar with a serious vibe. We snagged a couple of bar seats, enjoyed some beers, and listened to live music from a band playing older tunes that the locals loved. We could have stayed all night, but we were tired and wanted to make the most of the next day, so it was back to camp and off to bed.
Our morning started with coffee in Bayfield. While sipping, we walked around to find an “Up North” sticker and revisit a few shops that had been closed the night before. In one small shop, we found a maple syrup display—not only featuring great Wisconsin products but also BEN’S MAPLE SYRUP from Peterborough, NH! We were stunned and, of course, had to get some Ben’s Maple Cream Cookies. From there, we made our way across the peninsula to Meyers Beach. We were lucky to arrive early, as the parking lot was full and we snagged one of the last grassy spots along the road. As we walked to the beach, we passed several kayaking groups preparing to launch. It was then we realized we had picked the wrong company for our tour. Their websites looked professional, but the tours themselves were clearly on a different level than what we had experienced. The beach was beautiful, and we took photos and strolled along the water before starting our main goal at Meyers Beach: hiking the Lakeshore Trail. The trail follows the bluffs overlooking Lake Superior and is nearly all boardwalk, making it more of a scenic walk through the woods than a rugged hike. Eventually, the path opened onto a large bluff and canyon, where we could see kayakers exploring the cliffs and caves. Once again, we were reminded that there were much better tours than ours—another reason to return with more knowledge next time. The views from the cliffs were stunning! This area is so raw and dramatic that it’s easy to forget you’re not standing over the ocean—but over a freshwater lake. No sharks out there!
After the hike, we continued south along the shore to Cornucopia, WI, a small harbor town with a beautiful beach right in town. We grabbed a beer from the local watering hole, The Fish Shed, and wandered around the harbor. We enjoyed the mix of brand-new motorboats, sailboats, and a graveyard of old fishing boats from a bygone era. There was even one named “Captain Bill’s,” which I loved! We spent some time at the beach, and it was so beautiful I had to go for a swim. Playing on the water yesterday was fun, but actually swimming in the largest freshwater body on this side of the planet was incredible. The Apostle Islands area and National Lakeshore are truly special. We only wish it wasn’t five and a half hours from home so we could visit more often. Now that we know the area, we’ll definitely be back.
Our drive home was mostly uneventful, but we did have one side quest. When we learned we’d be moving to Wisconsin, we researched the state’s maple syrup scene and found out it has only one sugar shack. In New England, sugar shacks are everywhere—full of heavenly things like syrup, candies, and maple treats. In Wisconsin, the only sugar shack was Ski’s Maple Syrup Sugar Shack, just a 10-minute detour off our route home. There wasn’t much information available about it other than its existence. When we arrived, we found it was simply a pre-fabricated shed in a farm’s parking area. But upon investigating, we discovered it was wide open and stocked with all the delicious things you’d find in a New England sugar shack—just scaled way down. We picked up cranberry maple syrup (made with Wisconsin cranberries), standard Wisconsin maple syrup, and a maple treat, which turned out to be maple syrup root beer. As odd as the experience was, it was perfect! We were in and out quickly and back on the road. We may have a bit of a maple problem, but when it’s fresh and local, it’s noticeably better.
Wisconsin is full of surprises and wonders! This adventure epitomizes that. We set out on an impulse-based trip across the state and ended up seeing some of the most spectacular and unique geological features we’ve ever encountered. On top of that, we visited a new state in the UP and scratched our maple syrup itch. The Apostle Islands are a bit of a trek to get to, but once you’re there, the adventure opportunities are endless—a whole summer wouldn’t be enough to see it all. We also learned that there’s “Up North” in Wisconsin, and then there’s “Way Up There,” which is where the Apostle Islands are. Guess we were Living Rad Way Up North!